The Fascinating History of Perfume
Perfume has a rich and captivating history spanning thousands of years. From ancient Egypt to the European Renaissance, perfume has been an integral part of cultures across the world. Even today, perfume continues to hold an important place in society. There are many intriguing facts and stories to uncover about the development and use of fragrance throughout history.
Perfume Originated in Ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia
The earliest recorded use of perfume comes from ancient Egypt around 3,000 BC. The ancient Egyptians were fascinated by aromatics and infused perfumes into their religious rituals, believing the fragrances pleased their gods. Both men and women wore perfumes daily, and due to the hot climate, Egyptians often applied perfume multiple times a day. Spices, resins, myrrh, and frankincense were commonly used in their perfumes.
In Mesopotamia, the earliest perfumes date back to around 2,000 BC. The Mesopotamians used scented oils and incense extensively in medical practices, religious ceremonies, and daily life. Most perfume formulations were simple presses or extractions of various plants and flowers like myrtle, cypress, roses, and bitter orange. The Mesopotamians passed their perfume knowledge onto the ancient Greeks.
Perfume Became Mainstream in Ancient Greece and Rome
The ancient Greeks expanded perfume production on a larger scale around 1,000 BC. They were ingenuitive with distillation methods to extract delicate floral scents from flowers like iris, rose, jasmine, saffron, mint, and sage. Glass blowing also further enabled the Greeks to create specialized containers and tools for perfume-making.
In ancient Rome, perfume gained more popularity and sophistication. The Romans learned perfumery techniques from the Greeks then expanded and commercialized the trade. By 100 AD, Rome had become the perfume capital of the world. Scents like rose, violet, cinnamon, cardamom, honey, and musk were popular. Perfume was integral to Roman social rituals and daily life. They invented elaborate perfume bottles to store the scents.
The Crusades Helped Spread Perfume through Europe
During the turbulent Crusades between the 11th and 13th centuries, perfume spread from the Middle East back into Europe. European soldiers introduced new Middle Eastern fragrances and perfume ingredients to Europe after returning from battle. With expanded trade, European apothecaries and chemists could then experiment with creating new commercial perfumes.
During medieval times and the Renaissance, the French aristocracy adopted perfume in a big way to cover up body odors from infrequent bathing. Wealthy French nobles commissioned their personal perfumers to create custom fragrances for beauty and hygiene. The high demand fostered more perfume houses and artisans in France.
Modern Perfume Originated from 18th Century Italy and France
In the 1700s, Italy and France drove innovations in perfumery that led to the modern perfume industry. An Italian barber, Giovanni Paolo Feminis, created the first Eau de Cologne in 1709 by blending citrus essences with alcohol. His creation established the citrus-based cologne scent family.
The French further transformed perfume-making into a refined luxury art and science through patronage by King Louis XV. His court commissioned perfumers to produce custom scents as the ultimate luxury item. Notable French perfume houses like Guerlain and Chanel were founded and thrived during the 19th century.
New synthetic chemistry in the late 1800s enabled perfumes to be mass produced for mainstream commercial markets. Aldehydes gave rise to the influential Chanel No. 5 in 1921. Today France remains the fragrance capital of the world.
How Natural Materials Are Extracted for Perfume
Distillation Extracts Fragrant Compounds from Plants
Distillation is the most common method for extracting fragrances from natural raw materials like flowers, grasses, spices, woods, and resins. The natural materials are placed into a still, then heated to a temperature where volatile compounds evaporate. These compounds then condense and are collected in the receiving vessel.
Different natural materials require different distillation techniques. Delicate petals like roses and jasmine undergo gentle steam distillation. Heartier materials like clove and cedarwood suit direct dry distillation. This chemical-free steam method preserves the nuanced natural aromas that perfumers desire.
Expression Mechanically Forces Out Essential Oils
Expression, also called cold pressing, is used to extract fragrant oils from citrus peels. The colorful outer rinds of citrus fruits contain glands that hold onto the aromatic essential oils. Through expression, the glands burst and release those oils.
There are two expression techniques. Sponge expression presses the fruit peel against a sponge, forcing out the oil which absorbs into the sponge. The oil gets squeezed out from the sponge. Ecuelle à piquer involves pricking the rind with sharp spikes inside a container. The punctured oil glands drip down into the container’s bottom reservoir.
Enfleurage Infuses Oils with Fragrances
Enfleurage is a labor-intensive fat extraction method used specifically for delicate flower petals like jasmine and tuberose. With enfleurage, the fresh blossoms are placed on trays covered with odorless plant oils and fats. Over a few days, the oils and fats absorb the flowers’ fragrance compounds. The exhausted flowers get replaced with new ones repeatedly to make pomade.
Since enfleurage relies on large quantities of blossoms, it’s rarely used today outside of fine luxury perfumes. Extraction with volatile solvents gives a better yield from less raw material in most commercial perfumes.
Maceration Diffuses Fragrances into Fixed Oils
Maceration is the simplest and oldest perfume extraction method. Plant materials like flowers, leaves, and bark are steeped in a fixed oil for days or weeks to infuse their aromas into the oil. Occasional stirring helps facilitate the fragrance transfer. The plant matter gets strained out, leaving behind the scented oil.
Highly fragrant materials like jasmine, rose, and vanilla beans work best for maceration. The technique requires patience but does a good job gently capturing delicate nuances. Maceration is common for artisanal and natural perfumes.
Solvent Extraction Isolates Fragrance Compounds
Many modern perfumes use solvent extraction for efficiency and maximizing yields. The plant material soaks in a vat of solvent, typically hexane. The solvent pulls out and absorbs the fragrant compounds from the plant matter. Evaporation separates the aromatic compounds from the solvent.
Chemists can then purify and isolate specific fragrant compounds. This lets perfumers directly pick and choose ingredients for constructing a perfume formula rather than relying on a whole oil. The downside is solvents also extract impurities and alter some nuances.
Fun Facts About Iconic Perfume Brands
Chanel No. 5 Was the First Perfume with Aldehydes
The synthetic aldehyde compound revolutionized 20th century perfumes with its clean, sparkling character. Legendary perfumer Ernest Beaux created Chanel No. 5 in 1921 as the first perfume based around aldehydes. Its abstract floral bouquet was radical yet alluring.
The perfume was named after the 5th sample Chanel tried from Beaux. She loved the way the aldehydes added a glowing quality. Chanel No. 5 broke with traditional natural perfume compositions and came to define modern perfumery.
Christian Dior Was Superstitious with Miss Dior
Christian Dior chose February 9, 1947 to debut his Miss Dior perfume, since the number 9 was his lucky number. But his superstition didn’t end there. According to Dior, the perfume had to contain 15% jasmine flowers from the town of Grasse and 75 natural ingredients for good fortune.
Miss Dior’s composition was actually based on chance too. Dior spilled samples of aldehyde-floral perfumes he was considering and liked the accidental blend. With its lush white floral heart and charm, Miss Dior became an instant classic.
Shalimar Was a Tribute to an Indian Emperor's Gardens
In 1921, the legendary Jacques Guerlain visited the Shalimar Gardens built by an Indian emperor in the 17th century. The paradise gardens, featuring fountains, marble pavilions, and intricate florals, enchanted Guerlain. Back in his lab, he recreated the experience with citrusy bergamot, balsamic vanilla, and intoxicating florals in one of the world's first oriental fragrances, Shalimar.
Jicky Was the First Modern Perfume
French perfumer Aimé Guerlain composed Jicky in 1889 with vibrant lavender, fresh citrus, sensual vanilla, and rich oriental notes. But what made it revolutionary was its use of new synthetic ingredients alongside natural materials. This innovative composition created a bold, abstract scent and established the model for modern perfumery.
No. 5 Was Named After Coco Chanel’s Lucky Number
Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel was highly superstitious about numbers, specifically the digits 5 and 7. Five had special significance from milestones like the date of her first shop opening. So when presented Ernest Beaux presented her with sample perfumes numbered 1 to 5 and 20 to 24, she immediately chose the 5th test bottle.
Chanel named the new scent after her lucky number, and its aldehydic floral scent went on to become the best selling perfume in history. She continued incorporating 5 in many aspects of her brand right down to the stitching pattern on her suits.
Interesting Perfume Facts Throughout History
Ancient Egyptians Invented the World's First Perfumes
The first historical evidence of simple manmade perfumes comes from ancient Egypt around 3,000 BC. Ancient Egyptians combined aromatics like myrrh, frankincense, cinnamon, and resin to create rich incenses, cosmetics, oils, and scented cones worn on heads. Their advanced chemistry knowledge laid the groundwork for modern perfumery.
Hunting Dogs Were the First Animal Perfumers
According to ancient texts, the earliest known animal perfumers were hunting dogs in Mesopotamia around 4,000 BC. Canines' superior sense of smell led the Mesopotamians to infuse scent into dogs' collars to help track prey. The scented collars contained essential oils from plants, flowers, and tree resin.
Frankincense Was More Valuable than Gold in Antiquity
Highly treasured Middle Eastern and North African frankincense helped expand international trade and establish commerce routes starting around 5,000 years ago. The biblical Magi brought frankincense from the East when they visited the newborn Jesus. Frankincense resin and essential oil was more precious than gold in ancient times and used for spiritual and medicinal purposes.
Civet Musk from Cats Helped Create Floral Perfumes
For centuries before synthetic musks, perfumers relied on animal-derived musk. Civet cats and deer produced musk from scent glands that retained floral notes. The musk oil prolonged the fleeting fragrances of expensive rose and orange blossom extracts. Most modern perfumers now use cruelty-free synthetic musk replacements.
Whale Vomit Makes One of the World’s Most Expensive Perfumes
Ambergris is a rare, waxy material that sperm whales naturally expel. After floating on the ocean for years, sun exposure transforms its fecal scent into a desirable musky-sweet aroma. Ambergris has been called "floating gold" and used in high-end perfumes. The ambergris-infused Clive Christian No. 1 passes as the world's priciest perfume at around $12,000 per ounce.
Napoleon Lavished Himself with Cologne to Mask Body Odor
The influential French military and political leader Napoleon Bonaparte bathed infrequently and suffered from malodorous sweat. He combated the smells by splashing on eau de cologne with abandon throughout the day. Napoleon ingested violet pastilles candies too in hopes of making his body odor violet-scented.
Queen Victoria Wore Perfume to Honor Prince Albert after His Death
Queen Victoria had a devoted marriage to Prince Albert during her 63-year reign. As a sentimental memento, after Albert died in 1861 Victoria requested a perfume replicating his unique aroma. Legend says aromatic violets grew outside Albert’s childhood home in Germany, so Victoria wore violet-scented perfumes to remember him by.
Marilyn Monroe Enhanced Her Allure with Perfume
Marilyn Monroe famously exclaimed she wore to bed only a few drops of Chanel No. 5 perfume. Monroe was obsessed with fragrances and layering perfumes to create her own signature scent. She believed it added to the allure surrounding her sex symbol status. Her custom blends changed often and mixed musky, floral, and sweet notes to complement her skin chemistry.
Fun Facts about Famous Perfume Noses
Jean-Claude Ellena Is a Minimalist Perfumer
The French perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena established the global luxury brand Hermès' perfume division in 2004. His signature style focuses on translucent fragrances built around one or two prominent notes, like florals or woods. For Ellena, subtracting excess notes reveals purity and enhances natural quality. He's created iconic modern scents like First and Terre d’Hermès.
Christopher Sheldrake Ignores Perfume Trends
The bold British perfumer Christopher Sheldrake disregards perfume fads and brand traditions. He follows his instincts instead while collaborating closely with the house's artistic directors. Sheldrake composed unconventional scents like Euphoria for Calvin Klein and S JP Gaultier’s Le Mâle that became trendsetters themselves.
Dominique Ropion Pairs Industrial Aromachemicals with Naturals
The French perfumer Dominique Ropion is known for uniting synthetic notes with natural extracts for vivid effects. Scents he pioneered like Thierry Mugler’s Angel and Kenzo’s Flower disrupt conventional harmony with their potent highlighted accords. Ropion embraces both avant-garde and classical styles throughout his diverse portfolio.
Olivier Cresp Thinks Perfumes Should Tell Stories
The master perfumer Olivier Cresp envisions fragrances as encapsulating memories, emotions, and tales. Scents he designed like Angel nova, Light Blue, and Bright Crystal evoke fantasies with their multilayered notes. Cresp builds perfume narratives by contrasting elements like fruits with woods or florals with spices.
Alberto Morillas Is Nicknamed the Nose with 1,000 Noses
The prolific Spanish perfumer Alberto Morillas earned his nickname by creating over 1,000 fragrances for dozens of major brands. He holds the distinction for the most perfume launches worldwide. Morillas excels at subtle twists on timeless floral, fruity, and musk themes across his work, pleasing mass audiences.
Geza Schoen Brings an Outsider's Perspective to Perfumes
The German perfumer Geza Schoen shuns commercial trends and typical accords in pursuit of new olfactory aesthetics. Many call him the iconoclast of perfumery. Schoen chooses raw, synthetic materials then subverts expectations by using them unconventionally to achieve radical effects. His perfumes like Molecule 01 and Escentric 01 eschew harmony yet intrigue.
Interesting Facts About Popular Perfume Ingredients
Whale Poop Makes Perfume Last Longer
Ambergris from sperm whales was once crucial for helping perfumes endure on skin for hours. As the waxy ambergris warms on skin, its aromatic compounds continuously evaporate, releasing a scent halo. Synthetic ambergris now mimics this effect sustainably without whaling.
Deer Musk Inspired Floral Perfumes
Musk derived from male deer contains an odor that mixed with florals creates a sensual effect. The musk acts as a fixative to trap the fleeting notes of fresh flowers like roses and jasmines for longer scent release. Synthetic musk substitutes now replicate the same alluring floral compatibility.
Vanilla Makes Scents Seem Creamier
FAQs
How did perfume originate?
Perfume originated in ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia around 3,000 BC. Ancient Egyptians created perfumes for religious rituals and daily use from aromatics like myrrh and cinnamon. Perfume became more sophisticated in ancient Greece, Rome and the Islamic world before spreading to Europe.
What are some famous perfume brands?
Iconic perfume brands include Chanel, Dior, Guerlain, Hermès, Calvin Klein, Estée Lauder, Lancôme, Yves Saint Laurent, Jean Patou, Ralph Lauren, Clive Christian, Serge Lutens, Penhaligon's, and Caron.
How is perfume extracted from flowers?
Common methods to extract fragrance from flowers and plants include distillation, expression, enfleurage, maceration and solvent extraction. Distillation and solvent extraction are most widely used for efficiency.
What natural materials were used in vintage perfumes?
Vintage perfumes relied on ingredients like floral essential oils, spices, citrus oils, woods, musk, civet, ambergris, orris root and natural balsams. Synthetic chemistry later enabled more abstraction and standardization.
Who are some famous perfumers?
Renowned perfumers include Ernest Beaux, Germaine Cellier, Edmond Roudnitska, Jacques Guerlain, Jean Carles, Pierre Bourdon, Dominique Ropion, Jean-Claude Ellena, Mathilde Laurent, Francis Kurkdjian and Alberto Morillas.
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